Portillo de Lunada through the Pasiego valleys

Where it goes

You leave Liérganes, by the river Miera, and ride up the valley southwards on the road to Espinosa de los Monteros. The first half is valley riding: meadows enclosed by stone walls, Pasiego huts and small villages, on a gentle gradient that lets you keep a good rhythm. When you reach San Roque de Riomiera, one of the three Pasiego towns, the valley narrows and the road starts to climb towards the head of the Miera, an old glacial cirque. A kilometre before the col you have the Covalruyo viewpoint, with the whole valley at your feet. At the top, at 1,318 m, is the Portillo, on the border with Burgos.

Where it bites

It's 1,320 m of elevation gain in 31.7 km, with an average of 4.2% that the valley kilometres pull right down. The hard part comes after San Roque, in the final section, which is also the most exposed to the wind. The hardest kilometre on the route sheet hits 8.2%. It's tarmac all the way, although from San Roque the surface can be more worn: take care on the descent.

Where to stop

San Roque de Riomiera is the last village with bars and restaurants before the pass, and it's known for its stews. Fill your bottles there and eat something: there are no services at the top.

When to go

From May to October. Lunada is one of the passes in Spain that closes most often because of snow, sometimes from November to April. Fog is common even in summer and there's loose livestock on the road: take lights and descend calmly.

Getting there

Liérganes has a train station with commuter services from Santander, so you can come without a car. Check with Renfe whether your train takes bikes. If you come by car, park in Liérganes and take a stroll around its old town when you get back.