What to wear for riding in November: layers by the temperature of your ride

In November the same ride can start at 4 °C and finish at 16 °C. You leave home shivering, an hour later you're far too warm and, if you're running late, you come back frozen. The answer isn't a thick jacket: it's dressing in layers and choosing them for the temperature of your ride, not the one outside your window.

If you're wondering what to wear for cycling in the cold, here it is by temperature range, with how to look after your hands, feet and head, and what to do if it rains. It works just as well for road, gravel, mountain biking or cycling to work.

Before you get dressed: check the coldest hour, not the average

The most common mistake is looking at the day's high. What matters is the temperature at the coldest hour of your route: an early start, the descent from a climb or the ride home as the sun goes down. Check the hour-by-hour riding weather in your city and look at three things:

• The temperature when you set off and when you get back. Dress for the lower one and keep a pocket free for whatever you take off.
• The wind. In a strong wind it feels several degrees colder, especially on descents. A light windproof makes a big difference to your ride.
• The rain. Drizzle at 8 °C chills you more than a dry day at 3 °C.

A simple rule: if you're not a little cold when you leave home, you're overdressed. Ten minutes of pedalling and you'll warm up.

The three layers, in short

Base layer: the one that wicks sweat

A close-fitting technical undershirt, synthetic or merino wool. Its job is to move sweat away from your skin so you don't get cold when you stop or on descents. Avoid cotton: it soaks through and stays cold.

Mid layer: the one that keeps you warm

A long-sleeve jersey, thicker or thinner depending on the day. If it's fleece-lined, it's warmer. On mild days it can be a short-sleeve jersey with arm warmers, which you take off as it warms up.

Outer layer: the one that blocks wind and rain

A gilet or a windproof jacket. In November it's best if it's light and fits in your back pocket: you put it on for the descent or when the afternoon draws in, and take it off on the climb.

What to wear by temperature

This table is a guide. If you tend to feel the cold, go up a range; if you run hot, go down one. For rides of more than two hours, always dress a bit warmer than you think.

Hands, feet and head: where you feel the cold

Your body can be spot on and you can still have a bad time because of your hands or feet. They're the first to get cold, because they don't move much and take the wind head-on.

Hands

With cold fingers you brake and shift worse, so it's not just about comfort: it's about safety. Below 10 °C wear full-finger gloves and, below 5 °C, winter gloves with a thin palm so you can still feel the levers. A tip: carry a spare pair of light gloves in your pocket if you're going to sweat or it might rain.

Feet

Cycling shoes are made to ventilate, and in November that works against you. Overshoes are what you'll notice most for what they cost. Wool socks, but not tight: if your shoe is a snug fit, your foot gets cold sooner.

Head and neck

A thin cap or headband under your helmet covers your ears without overheating you. A neck gaiter works as a scarf on the descent and you pull it down on the climb. And always wear glasses: in autumn they protect you from low sun, cold in your eyes and whatever flicks up off the road.

If it rains or looks like rain

Rain is what makes November tricky. With wet and cold, the key is not getting soaked from the inside out or the outside in:

• A waterproof, breathable jacket, light enough to fold into your pocket. Even better if it has reflective details.
• Mudguards, even clip-on ones. They spare you the stripe of mud up your back and the spray from the wheel soaking your legs.
• Waterproof or neoprene overshoes. Wet feet in the cold are the quickest way to cut your ride short.
• A shorter, familiar route. If the day is grim, choose a route with exits nearby and a good surface. Greenways are a good option: flat, traffic-free and with villages nearby to stop in.

Some long, flat greenways for November, with data from Ciclismo en cifras (65 greenways, data as of 20 October 2026, © OpenStreetMap contributors):

You don't have to ride them end to end: an out-and-back on one section gives you a mid-morning ride with the sun at its highest.

Three tips that cost nothing

• Set off later and get back earlier. In November the good hours run from mid-morning to early afternoon. If you ride on weekdays with little light, have a look at how to keep riding after the clocks change.
• Wrap up for the descent, not after it. Put your gilet on at the top of the climb, before you start descending sweaty.
• Keep stops short and sheltered. A twenty-minute coffee outdoors in damp kit leaves you cold for the rest of the ride.

And make the most of it: November is one of the loveliest months to ride, with the woods still full of colour. If you're looking for ideas, here are the most beautiful bike routes for autumn.

Frequently asked questions

What should I wear for cycling at 10 degrees?

At around 10 °C, a technical undershirt, a light long-sleeve jersey or a short-sleeve one with arm warmers, a windproof gilet, bib shorts with leg warmers and light full-finger gloves. If you're descending a climb or setting off early, swap the gilet for a light jacket.

How do I know if I'm overdressed?

If you're not at all cold when you leave home, you're wearing too much. After ten minutes of pedalling you'll warm up and start to sweat, and that sweat is what chills you later on descents and at stops.

Are overshoes worth buying?

Yes, if you ride below 10 °C or in the rain. Your feet are among the first things to get cold and overshoes are one of the things you'll notice most. To start with, light ones will do from 5 to 10 °C; below that, neoprene is better.

Can I go cycling if it rains in November?

Yes, with a waterproof jacket, mudguards and overshoes, and choosing a short, familiar route with a good surface. Slow down in corners and brake earlier: wet tarmac and leaves on the ground are slippery.

Merino or synthetic for the base layer?

Both work. Synthetic dries faster and usually costs less; merino keeps you warm even when damp and smells less on long rides. What you shouldn't wear is cotton.